Some Safari browsers are failing to connect secured pages Try the following: - refresh the page a few time to see if the page loads, if this fails please update the browser or try to browse the page in Firefox or Chrome. - Read more.
Minispares.com uses cookies to give a better browsing experience. Read more 

Articles search results for radiator bracket

Showing 1 to 11 of 11 articles
prev of  next

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

C-ARA4442, C-ARA4443, C-ARA44443 HI PERFORMANCE RADIATORS

These radiators were developed to provide superior cooling capability over the standard equipment where non standard engines are being used.

MINI ENGINE STABILISER MSSK1000

1. This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2. Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3. Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine.

4. Remove the three bolts securing the bulkhead blanking plate as shown in the diagram. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram then this should be disconnected at the engine.

MINI ENGINE STABILISER MSSK1300

1. This is an auxiliary steady bar kit and should not be used to replace any other standard fitment parts that have broken.

2. Remove the radiator support bracket from the radiator and the thermostat housing.

3. Slacken the nut retaining the exhaust manifold at the radiator end of the engine. Remove the exhaust manifold stud by tighterning another nut against the original manifold nut and then screwing the nut out of the cylinder head.

4. Remove the three bolts securing the bulkhead blanking plate as shown in the diagram. If the car has a heater pipe as indicated on the diagram then this should be disconnected at the engine.

Monitoring Radiators development since 1960.

radiators-artical-image

Monitoring Radiators development since 1960.

I have been monitoring radiators and their development since the late 1960’s because they were and still can be a problem when tuning cars.
I have seen, tried and tested everything made available or offered to Mini Spares

Historical Article - March 1992 - Wild Thing!

In 1988, a humble 1973 Mini 1000 was minding its own business somewhere in London, when along came a young Mini freak called Jason King, who wanted to change it for ever, and make it famous.

Jason persuaded the owner to take £450 for the car, and then proceeded to throw £12,000 worth of presents at it for the next 3 years. Every minute of Jason’s spare time was spent working on his new car and every minute of his working time was spent looking for spares.

Historical Article - Nov 1992 - Little Red Booster 2

A strange choice, you might think, for inclusion in Mini Tech News but, surprisingly the GTM has more Mini parts on it than the Elf! (because the Elf is nearly all space frame).

Historical Article - Nov 1992 - Little Red Booster 2

A strange choice, you might think, for inclusion in Mini Tech News but, surprisingly the GTM has more Mini parts on it than the Elf! (because the Elf is nearly all space frame).

Historical Article-February 1995-Cooper body shell

Cooper Body Shell The Heritage specialists fit a shell at the Classic Car show at the N.E.C. Only the latest type production bodyshells are available from Rover, who in their infinite wisdom have reduced the price from £1 ,700 to £950, which may help keep a few more cars on the road.

Historical Article-February 1995-Cooper body shell

Cooper Body Shell The Heritage specialists fit a shell at the Classic Car show at the N.E.C. Only the latest type production bodyshells are available from Rover, who in their infinite wisdom have reduced the price from £1 ,700 to £950, which may help keep a few more cars on the road.
prev of  next